2025 Colombia

Might regret this – literally just Facebook posts!

Caroline Stevens is with Pete Stevens at Hotel Boutique Villas De San Sebastian.
·Villavicencio, Colombia ·

Set off from Newton Abbot on 22/7/25

Columbia Diaries
After getting up about nine, and a very decent breakfast of avocado toast for me and a massive bowl of fruit, granola and youghurt for Peter, we went on a stroll of the local neighbourhood, including a visit to the Museo Del Oro Bogota Now in a local bar and about to try out another…

23/7 This is ‘Rio’ (which, of course, is Spanish for River, Rachel Hyde – I did try explaining in Spanish about our neighbours’ dog!) It has been illegal to dock dogs’ tails here in Colombia for three years, and Rio has a fine, long tail. I had a chat with his handler and he is very young and works for seven years, then he will be retired.

Colombia diaries 24/6
Up relatively early and another good breakfast. Peter then had to go to the drug aria for some pain killers for toothache, then we git a taxi to the Telefonica up the hill for a couple hours. Hugely crowded and vest birding to be had was by paying a man 14 dollars each! No thanks! Pootled about for a bit and saw a few things. Now in a taxi to check out the botanical gardens

Yup. Found our way back to BBC for a few and got chatting with Juan – fashion photographer
Colombia diaries – Thursday afternoon 26/7
Met a nice chap in the BBC – a fashion flim director, who goes by the Instagram tag of ‘Jetlag’. Went back to the hostel for a bit of tapas and a relaxing chill by the fire, and Peter said ‘shall we go out for a wander?’ Off we set, not intending to go far, but ended up in a really ‘happening place – la marcha – and had a couple of caporinas – and then didn’t have enough money, so he had to go back to the hostel for more. This lovely chap made me an teeny giant anteater out of wire. I remember running back to the hostel, both of us holding my sarong to stop it falling down!

The outskirts of Bogota – reminds me of my At project with the year eights a few years ago, Justine Morton and Tracey Landles

Colombia Diaries 26/7
Yesterday we were up relatively early to take a trip to Chingaza national park with guide Andreas. Two hours to get there, half of which was on a very rough track – not ideal when you have a thumping hangover! Very beautiful place – stunning scenery and quite cold and frequently raining. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any spectacled bears, but had a few birds, including guan, hummingbirds and a condor- crappy distant photos to come, when I’ve got them off my camera – didn’t feel like doing anything last night, but we did go back to our little cafe for burritos and tacos.
Currently sitting in the bus terminal waiting for the bus to Villavicencio.

Colombia Diaries – 26/7/25
Well, we arrived at the bus terminal, and the hire car never showed up. Eventually we got a taxi to take us to our home for the next four nights. We’ll have to sort a car out tomorrow. At least we have beer and a pool – it’s a lot hotter here! And there are birds in the grounds! No restaurant open for dinner, so Peter’s birthday meal will probably be a takeaway pizza!

Colombia diaries – 27/ 7
Woke up very early, and so were up by 5.45 for a wander around the grounds of the hotel birding. Louis, the night man, told us where we could see lots of birds, and walked us there, but it turned out to be full of enclosures, so not really our scene.
Back for breakfast and then a taxi into town to hire a car for a few days, and then off to the Bosque Baraviria, where we walked up an increasingly steep hill for four hours. We saw quite a few birds and some mo keys and made it as far as the mirador – in fact we walked past it, as it is clearly no longer in use! It only took us about an hour to walk back down again and we drove home almost in time to get in the pool and have a beer, when the heavens opened. We sat outside our room until it had eased somewhat and so, here we are, in the restaurant, in our cozzies drinking Aguila – as it continues to rain!

Colombia diaries: – 29/7
Up quite early and, after a decent breakfast, headed east into the Llanos in search of giant anteaters. Spoiler alert – we didn’t see any

We saw a few birds, heard some howler monkeys (such a weird noise!), had cake and coffee, and later (after put leftover pizza from the mnight before. had a couple of beers in a local bar. Got chatting to a couple of customers – in Spanish and English – her English actually worse than my Spanish! As they left, they presented us with a couple more bottles of beer. We’ve experienced this sort of kindness in many countries – they put the English to shame.

Colombia Diaries 29/7
We had a great day today – up for an early breakfast and then off by seven to drive a couple of hours to an hotel, which has now closed, that was renowned for its wildlife and bea surroundings. En route we saw a northern screamer.We had thought of getting into the grounds somehow, but this wasn’t possible. A giant anteater was our aim/last hope. We drove up a side road and then, looking at what at first appeared to be a rock or a calf (a field of cows) turned round and showed us his long, skinny snout! Yay! Such a beautiful creature! We then went on to find several other birds, including thick knee, woodpecker, several raptors and parrots. The skies began to darken and we found somewhere for a beer, overlooking a huge wetland – then the heavens opened! We had a fried plantain snack and watched the rain. We then made outer way back through horrendous conditions to the car hire place. We are now stuck in traffic, trying to get back in a taxi, which started off taking us to the wrong place, due to a communication problem (taxi driver said he knew the place without looking).

29/7 Guy shot in Villavicencion – caught in traffic in taxi after dropping the hire car off.

Bye bye Villavicencio – you didn’t disappoint.
Waiting for the bus back to Bogata

Lovely last evening meal – a way to celebrate our oso hormiguero gigante!

30/7 Coach from Villavicencio

30/7 Back in Bogotá, in a taxi, looking for a camera battery charger, because someone left theirs at home!

Back at our local BBC for a cheeky Chapinero porter, before an early dinner and an early flight tomorrow. Karaoke night at the hostel tonight, apparently. Hope that they’re not too loud – our room is literally ten steps from the restaurant/bar!

31/8 This is the second person thar we’ve seen delivering cocktails to the burger joint over the road! Lol!

31 7 – flew to Leticia

31/7 Estamos aqui en las orillas del Amazonas

1/8

Colombia Diaries
Where were we…?.
Last night, after a bit of a wild goose chase to try and get a charger for Peter’s camera battery (fail) we went for a meal at a lovely little restaurant that our guide from Chingaza had recommended. A quirky little place by the name of Sanalejo and very good food. Back to the hotel for a martini (a very good one) and an early night – thankfully, the karaoke that had been promised, was quiet – if it happened at all. After a quite fitful night, we got up just before six to get a taxi to the airport for a nine o’clock flight. It didn’t go until about ten, but was, thankfully, uneventful and we arrived at the much-hotter-than-Bogota Leticia, where we arrived at a lovely little hotel, dumped our stuff and got a tuktuk to the river in order to book a boat for tomorrow. A fellow guest had recommended a particular company, and when I asked if it was the best his response was to the effect that it was ‘the least worst’. When I asked if it was safer, again he was more of the opinion that it wasn’t as bad as the others. Great!
When we got to ‘the-as-bad-as-the-others’ company, we were told that they take it in turns with each other and this company don’t go tomorrow. Also, they weren’t open until two (it was now about half past twelve) so we went to one of the two cafe/restaurants that the chap had recommended might do vegetarian food and ordered – what was offered! Namely beans, spaghetti, fried egg, fried plantain, rice and salad. It was actually very nice – just hoping that the salad doesn’t prove a mistake! Peter went and booked the boat when it opened and we went to check out which – ahem – quay? it will go from, had a short wander and got a tuktuk back to the hotel, where we had a shower and a nap.
So as not to waste the rest of the daylight, we then went out for a walk around the block with our cameras and binoculars and watched as thousands of birds headed for their roosts. Hundreds of white-winged parakeets made their way, from all directions, to a tree not far from here (but too far for any decent shots – especially as the light was fading), but what a spectacle it was. Hirundines filled the skies like flies and a black and white hawk eagle alighted on a tree nearby – something that we were quite lucky to see, by all accounts, as they are usually in forests.
As the light diminished fast and the bitey things came out to bite, we came back to the hotel for a ‘tea’ of squashed Ritz Crackers, soft Oreos and a drink.
Early night tonight (as usual, it gets earlier and earlier as the holiday progresses!)

Took boat up the Amazon to Puerto Narino
Bird guide, Ishmael, sorted for the next two days. Gracias Mauricio


2/8 Excellent morning birding, despite the rain, with Ismael Rodriguez
Amazing view of two pink river dolphins breaching just beside the boat – too quick for photos, though.

3/8 A few more phone shots from today. A fabulous day out with Ismael Rodriguez , woth pink dolphin, black-capped heron, a couple of kingfishers, an iguana in its burrow and an osprey, to name a but a few.
Early to bed now, as up for a six o’clock start tomorrow.

4/8 Guama and (proper) chocolate for beakfast
Edit: no idea why it turned out like this! Hope that rather rain hasn’t killed my phone, like it has my camera

)
Edit: it was the battery – thankfully. It’s completely dead- as in end of life

5/8 Colombia Diaries:
We took the 9.00am boat up to Puerto Narińo which left a bit late, and so we arrived about 12.00, and then had to walk ourselves up the hill, in the sweltering heat to our hostel. The room wasn’t ready, so we went off for a drink and some lunching ‘town’. We’d already spoken to a couple of chaps at the Quay about what sort of bird guide we wanted, and whilst we were invthe bar, we saw one of them, accompanied by another, who turned out to be an experienced guide, who worked with the chap that we had initially been trying to book (he was unavailable). We booked Ismael Rodriguez for the following two days and went back to the hostel to get settled in. After a nap, we had an afternoon’s walk into town and up to the bridge and got chattimgvto a couple of Italians, when I pointed out the color of the skybehind them. It was getting very black. We’d decided to go to a particular restaurant, and somehow walked past it, and all around the block, when the heavens opened. We got out our flimsy pacamacs and sheltered under a tree, but it was all a bit too much, so we ran across the road to the ice cream lady’s covered area and sheltered there, until it eased off enough to run the block back to our restaurant. There, we hada couple of beersand a nice veggie meal and, after it had stopped pelting down, made our way back to the hotel, where we had an early night in anticipation of an early rise for a day out birding.

Colombia Diaries: Saturday 2.8.25 We were up at 5.10 to go and meet Ismael Rodriguez and he took us across…will update tomorrow – got chatting to a fellow guest at the hostal!
Anyway…so tired and, as usual,getting lax on the diary front. Too much to do!
The first day that Ismael took us out, we were just setting off, when we saw some greydolphins. As I was asking him if the pink ones ever breach, as the greys were doing, a huge pink thing breached about ten feet from the boat! So exhilarating – but sadly no photos! We then went across the river to a sandbanks to look for a number of different species of birds Peter can fill in anyoe who’s interested, in what we saw, but I do remember the lovely sand coloured nighthawk or two – no doubt you will see the odd pic or two when I get around to it. One thing that will remain my memory for a long time is walking though an area with a few holes hug out and wondering what they were, poor Ismael suddenly sank down as or of is feet went through a soft piece of sad and a huge iguana shot out, fled in a way reminiscent of that famous shot on Wild Planet and flew into the air at the edge of the bank, down to the water’s edge. Poor soul was probably busy laying eggs, when she was Ridley interrupted. He did apologise to her though!.
It had been quite cloudy and the rain started lightly at first, but got stronger and we made our way to the island ‘La Isla Jovenes’ – on the Peruvian side. Lots of lovely soaking wet birding – but hey! It is The Amazon – as we kept telling ourselves. We had to be careful not to go too close totgeedge of the bank as, we could see from all the cracks, that huge chunks broke off regularly. Peter and I had donned out fetching waterproof capes by now, but looking through binoculars and taking photos was pretty difficult.
We returned for some lunch and a couple of drinks, is a short trip along another bank, and then Ismael went to change out of his soaking wet clothes.
Inthe afternoon, the weather having cleared up, we went up another part of the river – the highlight, for me at least, being the stunning looking capped heron (pictures at some point) – back to the postal, changed, out for a pizza at a nearby restaurant and then an early night ready for the second day with Ismael.

Colombia Diaries – Sunday 3.8.25
Up to the lake with Ismael Rodriguez for more birding – weather much better and rather more relaxing start, followed by a walk in the forests.

Colombia Diaries – Monday 4.8.25
A big, fat lie in! We then had breakfast here for the first time and then went for a walk through Puerto Nariño, birding along the way, of course.
Discovered little bar that sold black beer! Yummy and had veggie lunch there.
Lazy day with a bit of a nap, then a walk up up the hill and towards a nature reserve, where we saw some little black monkeys all on some sort of mission, climbing across the ‘road’ (there are no vehicles here, bar one tractor, which is used for refuse collection). As we’d had a good lunch, we bought a ‘tea’ of tomatoes, bread, cake olives, cheese and crisps. This act sounds better than it was! Lol! No coffee, despite promises of a ‘coffee station’, but a kindly fellow hosteler (?)offered us some of his

Colombia Diaries 5.8.25
Got up for some early birding on the walk towards the reserve before returning for a breakfast of a guama, sugar cane, pineapple, chocolate and a pancake made of manioc (probably). They don’t seem to go in for sweetening, seasoning or spicy here. They off we trollied once more yo the other end of town and beyond until we got about half way to San Fransico, where it got a bit steep for the muddiest- and wewere gagging for a drink by then. It was mostly dry, but we did have to don our capes and stand under some trees for about ten .minutes- gaining a few ‘looks’ from the locals going about their business, as usual, just in tee shirts and trousers. It was for the cameras and binoculars really. We’d noticed a sign to an hotel, which said ‘bienvenidos’ and ‘sigue’ and, amongst othr symbols, a plate, knife and fork, so wet trudged down the hill, about a further half kilometer, only to be told that we could only eat there with a reservation. When I asked ‘ ¿hay cerveza?’ the chap said that we’d have to pay an extra 20,000cop. Hacked off, we trudged even more slowly back up the hill, as, yet again, the skies darkened. We got back to ‘our bar’ just in time, but alas, no black beer! Still, we’re were made another nice lunch by te lady next door and had a good chinwag with a Polish man, visiting with his family.
After lunch, we sat idly watching the world go by and then down to the ‘mud edge’ to watch for dolphins for about fifteen minutes, before making the decision to head back as, yet again, the clouds were coming in fast. We got out one of the capes to hold over the two of us, but as we battled with it as the rain started, I couldn’t see where I was going and walked smack into a chap’s food cart, knocking his pots and pans flying and bruising my shins. We got back to the hostal as it started to hammer down and it continued like that for about three and a half hours – and it’s still raining now. Too tired to bother to go out in the rain, we had a meal of – well, the same as yesterday, except that what we thought was cake was a sort of sweet bread. Might go and borrow some of Guillermo’s coffee before we get into bed

6/8 Sitting here, at ‘our bar’, waiting for our early lunch before our boat back to Leticia, we are reflecting on what a on our wonderful short visit to Puerto Nariño. It is laid back, low key, friendly and (for the most part – there is a lot of dog poo other pnk road, duetothe number of straydogs in the place – but we met a gentleman yesterday who is single-handedly trying to address this, by paying to have them spayed). Ismael Rodriguez appeared at the hostel doors as we were leaving and helped us with our stuff to where we sit now, just beside the quay, with our promised cerveza negros. If any birders, or butterfly people are to come here – which I highly recommend, five nights is a bare minimum. We could easily spend a week here.
Edit: We’ve just has our last meal here – me: frijoles, arroz, salad, fried huevo and fried plantain – Peter egg and chips.
We’ve wandered around much (most? – still lots to explore?) of the town/village encountering ‘muchos aves y mariposas’
Puerto Nariño , we will miss you. Una sitio favorito!

7/8 Back in Leticia, ‘The Bright City Lights’ of a town of Leticia – we took a tuk tuk into town to visit the bank and find a restaurant, where we had nachos, sangria and red wine. The bird roost was an amazing spectacle as possibly half a million birds – mainly white winged parrots, but other birds too, descended into SatanderPark.

7/8/ Back at the airport at Leticia bound for Bogotá before tonight’s night vus journey to Medallin.
Thank you to our lovely ladies, Nanita and Mireya
Julian makes the best martinis in Bogotá
( just mustn’t miss the bus!)
8/8/Buenos dias!
On the bus to Medallin – started off in Bogota at 10.00 last night – is now6.53 – very little sleep!

Colombia Diaries Saturday 9.8.25
Waking up early in The Black Sheep hostel in Medallin. We had an early night as we’re totally knackered (I’ve also got a bad back, which is a tad annoying), so trying to catch up. Not written anything in my ‘old fashioned’ diary at all!
Wednesday 6th – today is the day that we have to leave Puerto Nariño sad to be doing so, as it such a chilled, laid back place with so much wonderful wildlife – if you ever get the chance to visit, stay fo a week.
We got up and had our final breakfast and went for a short walk around the little town with our cameras and bins before coming back to take our stuff down to the bar/restaurant prior to taking the 1.30 boat. Ismael Rodriguez was there waiting for us, bless him, to help us with or bags – a journey that would have been much more difficult had he not – bit at least it wasn’t swelteringly hot as it had been the day that we arrived. We said our goodbyes at the bar and Alfonso, good as his word, produced two cerveza negras. We had lunch and at one o’clock carried our stuff to the pontoon only to discover that the ticket was for ‘Jueves’ and not ‘Miercoles’! How had neither of us checked this‽ There was no room on the boat, nor on the three o’clock and we were stuffed! An Italian chap living in PN helped us out and we asked him if he knew Ismael- we couldn’t get hold of him on the phone – but this chap did and said that he would come and sort us out. Sure enough, after an anxious half hour wait (the only way out, remember, is by boat and our plane was the next day) I spotted Ismael walking along the road, accompanied by another chap – we waved to each other.
And here’s the rub – Lois (the owner of the small boat) had us over a barrel, and he knew it. Isma told us that it would be 400,000 cop, but he charged us 800,000! Then asked for more, when he dropped us off in Leti about two and a half hours later! Lesson learnt – hopefully – always check the bloody ticket!
We git a tuktuk to the Cruz Roja hotel, where our love ladies were delighted to see us again and, after a quick drink and dropping or things off, we got another one back into Let to go to the bank, as we has no money left now! As dusk was closing in, thousands of birds were flying into Sanntander Square – in incredible, noisy spectacle. Our tuktuk driver then took us to a ‘gastro pub’ that we’d spotted on the way in and we had a meal ac by sangria. Hailed another tuktuk and went home to bed.
boat to leticia
Thurs – fly from leticia to bogota get on bus
Fruday 8- bus to medallin

10/8 Hostel – snacks on bed for dinner – beers with young people!

10/8 Short Colombia Diaries (not up to date) Sunday 10.8.25
Arrived in Rio Claro after a three hour drive (picked up hire car) on an extremely windy road. Back Spanish speakers only – not on the backpackers trail. Drinking guaro – or Aguardiente – the national drink as we wait for oilbirds to fly over. Thunder is occurring!
Also, another night of snacks – finished up the crisps and had a bit more chocolate bread and watched a film in bed.
12/8 I need to update – but we have been so busy, and I’m so lazy – but just on case anyone thinks that We’ve been abducted or something – after a five hour drive, we arrived here – no, not a swimming pool, but thermal baths! (The clue should have been in the name!) Will post a few ‘road shots’ later – on my other phone, which is recharging.
Edit: a few bits from our longish and very wiggly journey here.

Colombia Diaries – (Rio Claro, Antioquia) Monday 11.8.25
Got up to be at the gate of the reserve by seven. We were only going for a shortish walk before breakfast, so no eater- finished up going to the topp of the hill, having had to walk up a stream, socks and boots in hand to get there. This from a man who used to moan at me to ‘put some feet on’ inside, at home! Very steep on the other side and we passed several men on horse/mule back – how they navigated those steep, narrow slippery rocky slopes is beyond me!
Knackered, we went to a restaurant in the reserve for water then beer and a packet of crisps, then arranged to come back with the car, look for the famous oilbirds coming out of their cave and then eat there afterwards. We got back to the hotel and had a dip in the pool before driving g back to the reserve. We then walked along the river bank for about half an hour and sat opposite the cave listening to the weirdest noises! They eventually emerged, mostly one at a time, rather than the mass exodus that we were expecting and we walked back in the pitch black (thankfully, we had torches) and had a very nice meal – they even had veggie sausages for me, which was quite a nice surprise

13/8 Today we are going here: Termales Tierra Viva
Edit (this was Wednesday 13th)
We had breakfast, which is supposed to be at eight, but didn’t get it until 8.39, so will skip it tomorrow) and then drove the busy wiggly road up to the reserve, where we could only really poodle about near the ‘farm’, as they call it (cafe, gift shop, lecture room etc). Said that we would return tomorrow to go on the guided ‘caravan’, which is the only way that you can enter the park proper. Had a few nice birds and returned to the hotel for a quick dip in the hot pool, a nice chat with a local lady in the pool and then dinner. We were the only ones ‘in’ the restaurant, as most people seem to eat poolside. People come here for the day, many, it would appear, who live locally. Had a jug of ‘sangria’, which was just wine, juice, fruit and syrup, but we spiced it up with a bit of ‘ron’ that we had left and had an early night for the early rise the next day.

Colombia Diaries Thursday 14.8.25
‘The best laid plans of mice, men and The Stevenses’
We were up before six and got to the reserve by about 7.30. It was absolutely hammerimg down, thunder amd lightning. We had been told that the first group would go at 8. We were then informed that we had to attend ‘the talk’ and that would start at 8.30. We watched a video in Spanish, with English subtitles and then listened to a ranger speak in very fast Spanish for about twenty minutes. After this, they asked Peter’s age, and when he told them, they said that we couldn’t go on the trip, due to the height. He was furious and very upset (as was I) He’s been above this height before, but it’s a strict rule of the park. We were more ann that they hadn’t thought to mention it before we sat through all the stuff, most of which we probably knew anyway. What a waste of a morning!
Anyway, leaving under a cloud – quite litera6, as the y were still very low, we made out way, very slowly, to Termales Ruiz, where we had planned to go afterwards to find more hummingbirds. We had a lovely lunch there and then posted around the grounds. Nit a lot of birds, due to the weather, but a few nice ones.
Then we drove back via the old road, which is shorter, and thanks to the four wheel drive, quicker (would not recommend with a two wheel drive tjough).
Peter has been bitten a lot, and puts ot down to bite things by the pool, so won’t go in this evening

T15/8 oday we visit a local nature reserve, recommended by Julia, the lady whom we met in the pool, and then make our way to Mandalay 1941, where we will stay for three nights

On the road to Mandalay! (Some commentary, a bit of which is…)

Omagerd! This place is fab-u-lous! The few ‘meals’ of crisps in bed were so worth it!

15/8/ Went for a very short walk towards the river with Diego, and saw Peter’s favourite duck (torrent duck) as it starters to hammer down again – now? Hot chocolate by the fire!
17/8 Colombia Diaries: Saturday 8.25
Up at 4.25 to meet Diego, our bird guide at 5
00am. With a packed breakfast, provided by Anna and Alberto, our hosts, we set off up the track for 11km of very bumpy road ( feel free to watch the videos in the photo dump!) Thank goodness that we hired a 4×4! Watched birds and butterflies, and even had a family of red howler monkeys – my highlight! We then went into Florida, the pretty little village just down the road, for a delicious lunch and then a walk in the grounds, down to the river, before a couple of beers.
Now sipping wine, awaiting our dinner.
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Colombia Diaries
Sunday 17th August 2025
A quite lazy rise and a lovely breakfast of breakfast burritos and parfait followed by a drive back up towards Quimbaya to try and see a few more things. We came back to Mandalay, having said that we wouldn’t need lunch as we intended to walk into Florida, but it was hammering down – in fact we had given a lift to a lady and her seven year old son, who had already embarked five km and would have had about seven more to go I’m the pouring rain. They were very pleased with the offer of a lift, especially young Juan-Martin, who fell asleep in the car.
Ana produced a delicious meal of beans and carrots with rice and almonds, prepared my Martha and we chatted to Ana and Alberto’s son and daughter in law, who were here for the ‘gallo’ fiesta. The rain stopped and we wandered into Florida, watched a bit of the show, had a mini pub crawl, bought some more Claro (data), chatted with a couple at the Claro shop/bar, tasted some beer at the fiesta and chatted to another couple, looked at a few gallos and madevour way back to Mandalay, dressed for dinner (which was delicious) and then went out again for a night drive. We drove all the way to the end -Cedral – and saw a guagua (no photos) and got a bit stuck on thevtufni.g back into Mandalay.
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18/8 – Left Mandalay and drove to hotel where we had crisps and a takeaway pizza

20/8 – Jardin
Cock of the Rock
Horse doing tricks in the square
After being ripped off to the tune of 40,000 cop for two small glasses of red wine in the square, we went back to our hotel d had some ron from a litre bottle that cost 43,000!
22/8

Weird day!
Spent three hours sitting in queues of cars on a road closed for work, arrived at hotel and had lovely diner at a nearby restaurant.
Will post photos of hotel tomorrow, complete with the phrase that I will never forget ‘It’ll just be like any other airport hotels!

‘Will it have a restaurant?’ I asked ‘It’s a typical airport hotel’, he said ‘of course it will have a restaurant ‘. Well, the restaurant is not open for another month, but we had a great meal at the Mexican restaurant down the road. The bed was super comfy, and if we’d had more time, birding around the grounds would have been great. All in all, a fabulous ‘airport hotel’!

22/8/ – Beer Lovers Cartegena
23/8 Great rappers in Cartegena

23/8 – wandered around Cartegena

24/8 – Beer Lovers bar
Caroline Stevens is with Pete Stevens.
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Colombia Diaries Thursday 14.8.25
‘The best laid plans of mice, men and The Stevenses’
We were up before six and got to the reserve by about 7.30. It was absolutely hammerimg down, thunder amd lightning. We had been told that the first group would go at 8. We were then informed that we had to attend ‘the talk’ and that would start at 8.30. We watched a video in Spanish, with English subtitles and then listened to a ranger speak in very fast Spanish for about twenty minutes. After this, they asked Peter’s age, and when he told them, they said that we couldn’t go on the trip, due to the height. He was furious and very upset (as was I) He’s been above this height before, but it’s a strict rule of the park. We were more ann that they hadn’t thought to mention it before we sat through all the stuff, most of which we probably knew anyway. What a waste of a morning!
Anyway, leaving under a cloud – quite litera6, as the y were still very low, we made out way, very slowly, to Termales Ruiz, where we had planned to go afterwards to find more hummingbirds. We had a lovely lunch there and then posted around the grounds. Nit a lot of birds, due to the weather, but a few nice ones.
Then we drove back via the old road, which is shorter, and thanks to the four wheel drive, quicker (would not recommend with a two wheel drive tjough).
Peter has been bitten a lot, and puts ot down to bite things by the pool, so won’t go in this evening.
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Colombia Diaries Sunday 24th of August 2025
Packed up and went out for breakfast in a ‘local caff, for local people’ and got a taxi to the airport Localiza, where we picked up our car and drive from Cartagena to Santa Marta , stopping off at a couple of place on the way. It was sparingly hot, but we walked to a wetland area and saw a few water birdy things and a couple of nice dragonflies. Further onwe stopped at a love little restaurant for a drink, but weren’t hungry enough for lunch (desayuno was huevos revuelto and fried plantain slices – basically egg and chips! We searched for the iguanas, which were there, according to the chaps at the restaurant, but in vain. Further up the (extremely long and straight road – so different from our Colombian experience so far), we spotted a nature reserve. Did a u turn and went in Albero (?)told us that it was 76,000 each for a look around the reserve, but as we only had half an hour, he charged for one. He then guided us around (teeny, tiny ants in the mangrove were more than a little irritating in sandals!) Also, my camera lens fogged up from the change from heavy duty car air conditioning to hot, swampy humidity.
Moving on, after about 45 minutes, we finally found ourselves at this hostel – great atmosphere – two pools, food and drink. They always play the music so bloody loud that you can’t speak to each other! So, here’s fond ourselves at the edge of the action, except that that means that we’re in the smoking area. Hmm. Hostels IYKYK!
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25.8 Great night at Masaya hostel – now off to the mountains

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26/8/ Pete’s friends and Breiner’s friends
Got here about five last night. They said that the road was bad – they weren’t joking! The hotel is fab though.
Met Breiner Tarazona , ‘Tigre’ and Santiago at six this morning and had a great morning birding. A smashing lunch and now it’s pouring with rain, but we’re surrounded by hummingbirds.

Returned to Bogota 1/9

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Shared with Your friends and Pete’s friends
Last bit – Tayrona – heard howlers, saw cotton topped tamarind- and a few birds